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The Edmonton Folk Music Festival
August 10-13, 2006

Day 1: Thursday, August 10

I was super excited to be returning to the Edmonton Folk Music Festival this year. I've been to the festival in 1995 and 2000, so I guess I was a year late on my five year plan. I hadn't planned on going, although the lineup was amazing, as usual, but when my dear friends The Wailin' Jennys dangled a guest pass in front of me, I could not hesitate. Not only would I get to see one of this country's great festivals, but an amazing lineup, and I'd finally get to check out the legendary Alberta hospitality and parties. I knew this was going to be good. I just didn't know quite how good.

Opening night looked like a mixed bag. I was really curious to see headliner Linda Rondstadt, but I really don't know a lot of her stuff, so she wasn't one of the ones I was dying to see. I was eager to see Austrailia's The Waifs again, after a long absence from our city and festival, but I knew I'd have other chances over the weekend. The same could be said of K'Naan, who I've heard so much about. I've never been a huge hip-hop fan, but I appreciate it (plus, I'm trying to quickly become "hip" and "cool" because I'm teaching middle school this fall, and they'll eat me alive if I come across as what I am, old and boring. Do kids really use "hip" and "cool" anymore? Maybe I have more work ahead of me than I thought.) I have no desire to ever see Bedoin Soundclash again (I really have no idea why they get to play every single Canadian festival this year and hordes of other more interesting and talented bands sit at home praying for such an opportunity), and I'm not familiar with Eileen Ivers and Immigrant Soul. All of this is a long winded explanation for why I decided to stay home Thursday night. I saved some dough, got some sleep, did my radio show, and took my time packing and getting ready. I didn't know it at the time, but the weather was lousy on Thursday night and Rondstadt got mixed reviews at best, so I guess I made a good choice.

Day 2: Friday, August 11

I was eager to make sure I made it to Edmonton on time for the start of the festival on Friday, because there was a workshop right away (Edmonton holds workshop sessions for the early part of Friday night and starts the mainstage at 9) that I was really wanting to see. I was trying to arrange for myself not to have to kill a lot of time in the city before the festival, but still leaving myself plenty of time to get over there. I made two mistakes in doing this. One, I thought that the airport right near the festival hotel was "THE" airport, when it turns out that it's just "AN" airport, a very important semantic difference. Secondly, I assumed that my plane would leave on time. I had arranged for a flight that would get me into Edmonton just before 4:00, leaving me with what I thought was plenty of time to get to the festival. You know where this is going I guess. First, my flight out of Winnipeg was over an hour delayed. The friendly Westjet folk tried to blame this on bad weather in Saskatoon (seriously, shouldn't we be blaming a more evil city like Toronto or Calgary for all of our problems?), but I think they just did it to prove that I'm an idiot for assuming that I could make it on time. When we did arrive not long after 5 or whatever, I figured I was still close enough to the hotel that I could possibly make it. Again, I was proven dumb. The Edmonton International Airport isn't actually in Edmonton. It turned out to be over an hour away (in terrible rush hour traffic yet. Smart, Jeff, very smart.), so I was late.

The workshop I really wanted to see was called "Troubles" and it featured the stellar lineup of The Waifs, Paul Kelly, Lynn Miles, and Sandy Scofield. Normally I like to get to a festival early so that I can take a walk around the grounds and get a feel for the place (ok, so I'm in a rush to find the CD tent), but there would be no time for that right off the top. Since I had arrived in Edmonton, a light rain had been falling, and it would continue throughout the night. I made my way over to the stage all decked out in my full body armour to protect me from the elements. A good sized crowd was on hand, but somehow I was able to weasel my way really close to the front to catch the show and snap some photos.

When I arrived, The Waifs were doing a number that I thought was "Your Cheatin' Heart," but I quickly realized that they'd just stolen the melody and put their own lyrics behind it. It was a fine song and it got me feeling much more relaxed and happy to be there right away.

Immediately following that was Lynn Miles, performing one of my favourite songs, "Black Flowers" (although I have so many favourite Lynn Miles songs.) I had seen Paul Kelly in Winnipeg only two nights prior to this (a stunningly great show. Paul Kelly should be world famous. Why does North America fail to see this?), so I already knew my part of his sing-along number, "Passed Over." The crowd was quiet, but willing to play along.

The Waifs are veterans of enough folk festival workshops to know that the last number should be a rousing number that all performers on stage can jam along to, and they made an interesting choice. They decided to do a cover of a great Paul Kelly number called "From Little Things, Big Things Grow." I'm not sure whether she was nervous because Paul was there or what, but Donna from the Waifs kept screwing it up! I kept waiting for Paul to jump in and save her, but he waited patiently and let her sweat it out on her own. Eventually, she got her act together and a great show-closer ensued.

I don't like to brag about the fact that I schmoozed a guest pass to the festival (although I'm eternally grateful for the wonderful opportunity), but I headed backstage for dinner, and it was fantastic right away. Souvlaki, pita bread, little samosas, and all of the fixin's. I knew it was going to be a great weekend right then and there.

And speaking of the backstage hospitality, this boy from Winnipeg was shocked to learn that not only didn't I have to wait in a million lines to buy a plate, wait for slow food service, and then wait in line again to return the plate, in Edmonton, get this, they trust me to bring it back! What a concept! Sure, you're not allowed to take a plate of food out of the backstage area (but really, why should you need to), but it was so refreshing to think that a festival might have a little faith in volunteers and guests. Kudos for that. And once again, security was not invasive or overzealous. In fact, there's a separate gate for volunteers and guests, and they hardly gave us a second look over there. I do love the Winnipeg festival, I do, but why must they treat me like a common criminal all the time?

I mentioned the rain, right? Well, it had rained all day Thursday and Friday, and there was a lot of mud around. I was totally impressed with the site crew who kept dumping sand down and rolling out plastic mats to keep the mud at bay so that the festival didn't turn into a mud-fest like Winnipeg did in 2005 (and pretty much every other year except this year!) Nevertheless, there was a lot of mud and wet grass around. I was fine with it, because I was decked out in my armour, like I said, but I also hoped that the weather would improve for the rest of the weekend.

Luckily, I have only a few complaints about the Edmonton festival, and most of them have to do with some of the stupid people who attended the festival. I could be over-glamourizing the Winnipeg Folk Festival, but people there seem to be so respectful of one another. Not in Edmonton. As with all festivals, the quaint custom is to set up your tarp as your home base for the main stage. In Winnipeg, once a tarp is set up, that area is off bounds. People will go well out of their way to avoid stepping across someone else's tarp. If you have to step on someone's tarp, it should only be done right at the edge, and preferably never in front of someone who is watching the show. In Edmonton, people walk wherever the hell they damn well please, whenever they damn well please. Throughout the weekend, I had tons of people walk in front of me, step right over me all the time, and occasionally, I had people step on me. Very few ever apologized or seemed to care. Most seemed annoyed that I was in their precious way. It's so uncivilized and un-folk-festival.

So, at the end of the night, my tarp was a muddy, disgusting mess. I kind of expected it to be wet and a bit muddy, but I didn't expect to have it absolutely covered by people who couldn't be bothered to walk around. Below is a shot of my tarp the day AFTER. This is after I'd dried it off and shaken off lots of the grass and mud.

Back to the music...

After dinner, I headed back to stage 6 (where I'd seen the previous workshop), for an interesting looking set featuring Bill Bourne, Baka Beyond, Karine Polwart, and K'Naan. I've always been a Bill Bourne fan, so am always glad to see him at a festival (even though I do have a humourous story about being stood up by him on the way to a radio interview...), but I guess I went to this workshop more out of curiosity about the other performers than anything else. I really wanted to see K'Naan at some point. I'd missed him in Winnipeg and had missed his concert in Edmonton. I'm not a huge hip-hop fan, but I've heard that his stuff is intelligent and interesting enough that I'd really like it. Plus, I really need to know a thing or two about current music so that my students don't think I'm entirely old and uncool. I missed much of the set, but managed to catch him do one song (although I also caught one of his entourage do a number, because K'Naan passed the mic over to him during one of his turns. I thought that was classy, although I would have liked to see K'Naan myself.) Good set, enjoyed the show.

I headed over to the muddy mainstage for what looked like a rockin' concert. First up was Susan Tedeschi and her band. I've often thought that if she gets sick of being a solo artist, she could form a band on the side and call it Second Raitt, because she sounds so much like Bonnie at times. She's a pretty powerhouse performer, belting out the rockin' blues. Nothing earth shattering or terribly original about what she does, but she put on a pretty good show I thought. One funny moment came at the end of her set when she was introducing a medley of tunes that she had planned to end off with. I guess someone on the crew got really worried that she was going to go over time, because she got quite defensive and mad at the poor soul, and said, "I know how much time I have left; there's a clock right in front of me. I have done this before, you know." Not exactly polite, but I guess she had a point. But at a festival when you're trying to stay on schedule, you never can be too sure that some performer isn't going to play as long as they please.

Next up were the legendary Neville Brothers. They performed a pretty solid set, although I guess I was expecting something a little more upbeat than they gave us off the top. I watched a bit of their set, but because I'm not a die-hard fan of theirs or anything and I had such a long day ahead of me on Saturday, I decided to head back early to dry off. We got to listen to some of their set in the shuttle van on the way back to the hotel.

Although I was dying to attend one of the legendary Alberta after-parties, I decided to hit the sack early. I wanted to get to the site plenty early to stake out a good tarp space for the best night of the festival.

Day 3: Saturday, August 12

I got up early and checked the weather. The forecast was entirely positive. Sun, some clouds, a slim chance of rain, but "No Precipitation Was Expected." This is important to note. I checked the weather again and again, and got different opinions. All seemed confident that there was going to be no rain, and I guess I believed it. I actually took my rain stuff out of my bag after packing it the first time, because I was feeling pretty safe. I only put it back in as an after-thought, because I knew how cold it got at night and I figured the rain stuff was the lightest to carry, and the most likely to cut a wind and keep me warm. This would turn out to be a great blessing.

First up was one of those horrible festival decisions, where you have to pick what to see and what to miss. I could have gone to just about any stage and seen someone I wanted to see, but I settled on "Peaks and Valleys" with The Wailin' Jennys, Michael Joseph, Lynn Miles, and Paul Quarrington, of the band Pork Belly Futures. The Jennys are my friends and one of my favourite bands. Lynn Miles is wonderful beyond words (and would get more wonderful each time I saw her at the festival). I don't know Michael Joseph, but his write-up sounded good. Paul Quarrington is one of my favourite authors of all time, having written the brilliant book "Whale Music" among many other classics, but I'd never seen him in music-mode before, so I was eager to catch him in action.

One of the biggest surprises of the weekend awaited me at the workshop, so I was very glad I went. At the previous night's workshop, Lynn Miles had performed alongside her brilliant guitarist Fred Guignon. The only other time I have seen Lynn live was when she played at the Bluebird North tour, and she performed with just a guitarist backing her there too (the great Keith Glass, I believe), so I wasn't expecting her to have a full band along with her. I especially didn't expect that band to include the mighty Peter Von Althen on drums, or best of all, one of my favourite singer/songwriters, Jim Bryson on bass! Jim's normally known for his great guitar playing, so I was initially a bit disappointed that he was "only" playing bass in Lynn's band. Never underestimate Jim Bryson folks. Not only is he a really great bass player, but his harmony vocals were incredible. He brought a lot to Lynn's shows for sure.

Lynn & Jim showed off their incredible harmonies on "Over You." Not to be outdone,Paul Quarrington had a few surprises up his sleeve too, including his backup vocalist, the great Rebecca Campbell. I've been a big fan of her work, so was pleased to see her there as well. Paul and Rebecca proved to be a good team as well, on Paul's song "You Gotta Love a Train." After a song by Michael Joseph that proved that he could more than hold his own on that stage full of better-known folk, The Jennys pulled out a newer song of theirs that they're still working into their live show, "Firecracker." They expressed some concern about the performance later on, but I assured them that it sounded fantastic to me.

Lynn Miles is one of those great combinations of beautiful, but often hopelessly sad songs, and a wicked, wicked set of humour. She introduced her song, "This Is the Night," by saying, "I've written probably 500 songs. 3 of them are happy. I'd like to play one of them now and get it over with."

Later, she would remark, "I'd like to do my other happy song. It's called 'I Give Up.'" That wacky Lynn. She would also do "Love, Sweet Love."

Quarrington and crew followed that up with a great one called "Healing Rain."

I didn't write down absolutely everything (and I would get more lazy as the days wore on), but the Jennys played "Arlington," "Long Time Traveler," and "One Voice."

I was pleased that Paul Quarrington encouraged Rebecca Campbell to take over for one of his turns (but was a bit disappointed that Lynn Miles didn't follow the lead and let Jim Bryson do one!). She emerged with this bag of music box parts, and handed them out to everyone on stage. They joined her on cue during her song.

For the session-ending singalong, Lynn and Rebecca took the lead. Apparently they played in a country swing band, called The Black Donnellys, years ago, so they knew some fun covers, and they decided to lead the band in the old standard, "Don't Fence Me In."

After the session (and some more wonderful backstage food,) I wandered up the hill to stage 2 to see, "Two Step." I distinctly remember looking up at the sky and thinking that it was a really nice day. It hadn't been too hot, as a breeze blew through occasionally to keep us cool, but it was warm and sunny. I liked the mix of warm and cool, and thought it was a perfect festival day. As I walked to stage 2, I noticed one solitary grey cloud, and laughed to myself that we weren't going to get any rain out of that one seemingly harmless cloud.

I made my way up close to say hi to Geoff Berner and see the other participants in the workshop, Le Vent du Nord, and The Duhks. It was an odd pairing indeed. Le Vent du Nord and the Duhks seemed to make perfect stagefellows, but what was Berner doing there? I'll never really know, but it was mostly to see him that I went to the workshop at all. I was really enjoying the day and the lively music when the first drop fell. And it was a big one. Very intermittent, yet big, fat, and heavy rain drops began to fall. Again I looked up, noticed the one solitary cloud and figured that a few drops would be all we would getting. I didn't even think to go for the rain stuff at that point.

That is, until the skies opened and it started to POUR. Those drops were heavy. I quickly scrambled to take cover under my rain gear and cover up my backpack. I didn't even get that done before the hail began. I've seen hail storms before, but this one was unreal. The hail stones weren't that large, thankfully, but there sure were a lot of them. And they continued to fall as people crowded under the stage tent for cover. You couldn't be trapped at a hailstorm with any better performers, as they got the crowd dancing and having a great time, in spite of the bizarre storm that we were suffering through.

And then, almost as suddenly as it had started, the rain and hail dried up, and a glorious day was had after that. Truly bizarre weather that kept everybody talking for the rest of the weekend.

Berner didn't really fit in at this workshop at all, but nonetheless, he had people howling with laughter during his wickedly satirical song, "That's What Keeps the Rent Down, Baby." I don't think the french band was all that amused, but The Duhks sure were fans. They laughed like mad through Geoff's stuff and called him a brilliant genius from then on.

During the afternoon main stage break, I decided to make the hike up the hill to take in the sights. The Edmonton festival has one of the most beautiful and unique backdrops anywhere. It's a really neat view of the festival below, and the city skyline towering above.

Unfortunately, to see it all, I had to haul my fat ass up a really steep, muddy hill. At least I can say that I got some exercise in Edmonton (which is great, because I don't get much of it in the course of my hectic life here. Pass the Doritos.)

The photo below shows the huge beer tent area to the right, and the food vendors stretching off in the distance in the middle. Terry will be shocked and disappointed to know that I didn't visit that beer tent once while I was there. And actually, I didn't visit the food vendors much either. I did make regular trips to the CD tent and craft area (under the pointy tents on the left.)

By the time I was done my hike and the subsequent urgent medical treatment that followed, the main stage set was almost done. I knew the next workshop up would be a popular one, so I wanted to get over there to find a good spot. Unfortunately, most people were smart enough to make it over there sooner than I did, because the area in front of stage 6 was absolutely packed. Normally, even a busy workshop yields a few less-than-prime spots right in front of the speakers or something, but there was no close space to be found for this session, so I set up in an unfamiliar position, well back and off to the side. I wasn't feeling too good about my placement, but I really wanted to see the session.

The session was called "Coolsville," and it featured the obviously cool Feist and Hawksley Workman, as well as questionably cool The Waifs and the weirdest cool guy on Earth, Geoff Berner.

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Heck, even Paul Kelly and Jason Collett (at the right of the above photo) got there earlier than me and got a good spot. And they weren't even playing for another hour and a half!

The workshop, musically, was a really fun one, of course. Berner sang a great song detailing his sneaking suspicion that something's wrong with the Vancouver police. I think he may be on to something. He also played his great public service announcement song, designed to protect audience members from sure misery and humiliation, entitled, "Don't Play Cards for Money with Corby Lund." Good advice indeed, but a risky song to play in high Corb Lund country.

Therein brings me to the un-fun part of this workshop. The really annoying crowd. Now maybe I was just sitting in a bad spot, but there were a lot of really dumb people around. They made no bones about the fact that they were there to see Feist and/or Hawksley Workman, and they showed no interest in the Waifs or Berner. That is, until Berner started talking about Corb Lund and mentioning Alberta in his song. Then the moron loogans in the crowd started to pay attention, but after that, it just gave them more cause to talk through the other performers as they debated the merits of Geoff's material.

Here's another annoying thing about Alberta folk fest attendees. They never turn their cell phones off. In all my years at Winnipeg Folk Festival, I've never heard a cell phone ring during a workshop. In Regina, there was one particular person who always let her phone ring, but she's the AD, so I guess she's allowed, but in Edmonton, pretty much every workshop I attended featured at least one (usually more) ringing cell phone. The best part is, everyone answers it when it rings! So you get some moron carrying on a conversation when you're trying to watch a show. And because the music is fairly loud, the moron has to speak up and ends up yelling, so you catch every detail of the phone call (usually some other moron friend at the festival wondering where the other person is, when they should meet up, whether their session is worth attending, etc.)

It was really packed at this workshop. I read later on that it was one of the biggest workshop crowds ever at the festival. It's certainly the biggest workshop crowd I've ever seen. Because of the big numbers, people had to sit fairly close together. I understand that. But some folks took it a little too far...

I'm a big dude. I need my leg room. So you can't blame me for stretching out my legs when I get a chance. Well, a couple of ladies could. They saw that I had plenty of leg room and asked if they could sit in front of me. I really did have plenty of room at that time, and even if I split the difference and pulled up my legs a bit, and they did the same, we all would have had lots of room. And that's the way it started out. We were all comfortable and life was good. But then, these pushy, annoying ladies, proceeded to move back so that they could stretch out their legs. Eventually, they had tons of leg room, and annoying woman on the left there was basically sitting on my damn lap! Look! That's no trick photo. My knees are pulled up tight and those ladies are stretched out in the lap of luxury. I'm big on personal space, and this ruined the rest of the workshop for me.

Well, that and Hawksley's fans, who were annoying. They hooted and hollered and yelled out requests every time he even looked at the crowd and paid no attention to anyone else. I've decided that Hawksley Workman is like a folk-fest Tragically Hip. The band ain't bad, but their fans are morons. Hawksley's a talented guy for sure, and I admit that I thought he was totally amazing when I first saw him, but the novelty has worn off rather quickly.

At Winnipeg, during one workshop, half way through, Hawksley thought the thing was over. He figured that he had time enough for one more song (even though they'd basically just started), and he wanted to do a singalong. He couldn't think of anything suitable, so he led the other performers in a version of, of all things, Silent Night. The only thing that saved that was the hilarious Chad Van Gaalen, who made up his own verses about how dumb it was to be doing Silent Night at a folk fest.

Anyway, I tell you this becuase at one point, near the actual end of this workshop, Hawksley said, "I'm going to do something that I played a couple of weeks ago at Winnipeg Folk Festival, and it went over pretty well there, so I'll give it a try again." Honestly, I thought he had a delusional moment and was going to do Silent Night again. Luckily, he did "Mother and Child Reunion," which genuinely wasn't bad.

I had toyed with the idea of sticking at stage 6 for the next session, featuring Sarah Harmer, Bruce Cockburn, Jason Collett, and Paul Kelly, because damn that would have been good, but the annoying and huge crowd was ruining it for me, so I got out of there.

And boy am I glad I did. Normally, I try to avoid daytime concerts at festivals, instead cramming in as many performers as I can by catching workshops. Workshops can either be frustrating and boring, or truly magical in some cases, so I stick with those wherever possible.  But with the obvious choice workshop off my list of possibilities, I was left with the blues workshop, which surely would have been fun, but could have been very busy, or the sole Ricky Scaggs workshop appearance, which surely would have been a zoo, or a series of concerts. One featured Geoff Berner, but I'm going to see him in a full length show here in Winnipeg next month, so I figured I could miss that. The Duhks were also doing a show, but I hadn't come around to their brilliance yet (more on that later), so I passed on that in favour of Lynn Miles' show.

It was indeed a great show, again made greater through the addition of her stellar band and her great sense of humour.

 

Lynn made her way through most of my favourites off of her albums (although I really like "Never Coming Back," and didn't get to hear it. Guess you can't win 'em all.) Her and Jim really played well off each other. They sang so well together and worked so well together, I assumed they had played together a lot, since they're both from Ottawa. When I talked to Jim later on, I was surprised to find that it was his first show ever playing in Lynne's band. He had met her and played alongside her on the CBC show Fuse (which, if anyone has on tape, I'm DYING to hear), but they each played their own stuff on that.

Earlier on in the day, I had seen Lynn over at the Six String Nation tent trying out this amazing piece of Canadian history. (if you're not familiar with this unique national artifact, check out the website: http://sixstringnation.com/en/. It really is an amazing guitar and what a story!) I had noticed that it was set up onstage during Lynn's show. At one point, she sent the band to the back so that she could play a song on it by herself (I guess she didn't want the likes of them sharing the stage with that amazing guitar.) She played "It's Hockey Night in Canada," and there couldn't be a more fitting song to play on that instrument I suppose.

I wasn't sure anything could top that, so it was probably for the best that the workshop stages were done for the day.

First up was blues/soul singer Bettye Lavette. She's not as well known as many other artists, but she's got all of the makings (and the confidence/lack of modesty) of a legend. I really enjoyed her set and her tight backing band.

Following her was Feist. Much like Hawksley Workman, I was amazed by Feist when I first saw her, but the novelty seems to have worn off. I really think she's talented and I'm glad she's doing well, but I took her set as a great opportunity to grab some dinner and walk around a bit.

I made it back in time to see Ricky Scaggs and Kentucky Thunder. A better bluegrass band you're not likely to find, but I'm not the world's biggest bluegrass fan.

Following Scaggs, Jason Collett did a 'tweener during the setup for Bruce Cockburn. The 'tweener stage is set so far off to the side that almost half of the audience can't see whoever's up there, so I always had to run beside the speakers to watch whenever someone I wanted to see was on. I'm no genius, and perhaps I'm spoiled by the great sightlines in Winnipeg, but couldn't they either move the stage forward, or the speaker towers back so that we could all see the entire stage? Can someone explain to me why they have the speakers so far forward in Edmonton? It's not like that in Calgary or Regina or Winnipeg or anywhere else I've been. Maybe the folks in Edmonton just haven't asked someone with my amazing common sense and brilliant ideas. I'll make a note of it and see what I can do.

Canada's legendary folkie Bruce Cockburn was up next. Unlike his recent appearance at Winnipeg Folk Festival, Bruce had a band behind him this time (well, a drummer and a keyboard player), and I really thought it made the show much more engaging than his solo show. I love Bruce, don't get me wrong, but a couple of extra players made a big difference here, if you ask me.

Even better than that were his guest backup singers. At the Winnipeg Folk Festival, Bruce had talked to The Wailin' Jennys and told them how much he liked their record, and then they discussed a possible appearance together at Edmonton. They had discussed a few of Bruce's songs that might benefit from some gorgeous backing vocals. Earlier this day, the Jennys got to hang out on Bruce's bus to rehearse. Later on, they were a bit nervous and felt that they needed to rehearse a lot more, but it sounded pretty magical to me. Together they performed "Night Train," and "If a Tree Falls." Then the Jennys would leave the stage, only to be replaced soon after by Hawksely Workman for a song, then the Jennys came back to join Hawksley and Bruce on "Mystery." It's so good to see those wonderful ladies getting some attention from someone as legendary and influential as Bruce Cockburn. I'd bet that some day they'll be playing main stage and asking him to join them.

After Bruce was David Gray. This, for me, was the most interesting programming move of the festival. On the one hand, Gray is a huge star internationally, who has, to my knowledge, done very little (if any) touring in Canada. The opportunity to see a rare Canadian appearance certainly raised my eyebrows. But I kind of figured he'd be expensive, and might be a bit of a risk. The true folkies might not approve of spending a bunch of money on a pop/rock performer at their festival, but I sure was excited to see him.

David Gray first came to my attention rather late. I heard his song "Babylon" in a terrible movie in 2001, and I loved it. It took me a bit of time to track down the album, 1999's "White Ladder," but as soon as I got it, I loved it. It's full of the kind of mellow, moody, introspective lyrics that really get me thinking and feeling, and it's also full of wonderfully accessible and memorable melodies. For me, that's the perfect combination. I love the record from start to finish, so for me, the perfect David Gray show would pretty much contain just that. I've got some of his more recent work, and enjoy it for sure, but that album is the one I always reach for.

Over the years, I've read a lot of things about David Gray. I read that he was kind of cranky and difficult and didn't say much in concert. I also read at one point that he was sick of the "White Ladder" record and the attention it received, and that he didn't want to ever do "Babylon" again. With all of this in mind, I was a bit skeptical about his show. I especially wondered how, what I assumed would be a very toned-down show and production, would go over at a folk festival. 

I could tell this was going to be not your average laid back folk show, because the stage setup was massive. Gray seemed to have his own crew who loaded tons of gear onto the stage. There were risers, monitors, a monitor mixer, amps, and tons of instruments. I couldn't even tell what some of them were or what they were doing there. I made a point of going up beside the stage later on just so I could get a better look at the setup. Then, after the lengthy setup was done, Gray was introduced. And then, silence. There was an awkward silence of a few minutes. I kind of wondered whether he'd missed his cue or what, but I learned later on that he had 4 minutes of silence built into the schedule. Why?

I'm so glad to say that any fears I had about the show were totally unfounded. Although Gray's songs are for the most part kind of mellow and sometimes sad, the show was amazingly energetic and tons of fun. When he's not singing (and even sometimes when he is), Gray moves around and shakes his head like a madman. He is a master showman. He not only sings each line, he delivers it. Not only did he not avoid the White Ladder CD, he played almost all of it. After a bit of the amazing show, I had to make my way to the side of the stage so that I could get a closer look. I could see his many backing musicians and the arena-load of gear piled onstage.  I was about as close as I could get at the side of the stage by the time the show ended with an amazing version of "Babylon." Gray was interacting with the audience and getting them to sing along, and he seemed to be having a great time, and the huge crowd that was still on hand sure was too. It was without a doubt one of the best shows I've ever seen (well, top 10 anyway).

Was it folk music? Who's to say. Did this big production belong at a folk festival? Again, you can argue it, but I guarantee it got some folks excited and talking, and anyone who watched the show had to be impressed, so I'd say all around it was a huge success.

I made it back to the hotel and checked out the amazing after-party for a bit. Where these people get their energy, I can't possibly know. Unlike Winnipeg's after-parties, which are really low-key and boring for the most part, Edmonton's parties are high-energy, alcohol fueled (thanks to the $2 drinks... in Winnipeg, full of the cheapest people in Canada, they're $5. Think that has something to do with our low-key parties?), and a lot of fun. Everybody goes and has a great time. I didn't stick around for too long after my long hot day (and because I'm a fool and forgot my sunscreen, I had some burns to attend to...), so I got to bed at a decent hour so that I would survive the last day of the fest.

Day 4: Sunday, August 13

I didn't rush out to the site on Sunday. I wasn't dying to get up close with anyone on the mainstage, so I wasn't too worried about tarp placement, and there was no workshop right at 11 that I was running to get a good spot for, so I sauntered in shortly before 11. Somehow, I managed to lay down my little tarp in almost exactly the same spot I had the previous two nights (a repeat of the same miracle that happened in Calgary, previously), so I was pretty happy, and happy that I hadn't rushed over too early.

And luckily there was plenty of room up close for the first workshop I went to, "Young and Restless," featuring Jenny Allen, Jason Collett, Solas, and Rachelle van Zanten.

This workshop was most notable for pointing out one of my biggest folk fest pet peeves: performers who whine about doing morning workshops. Collett and Jenny Allen led the charge by complaining about how tired and miserable they were, and how early it was. Well, "BOO HOO!" It was noon, not 7 am. Those poor musicians absolutely had to stay up all night drinking at the party, how could they possibly be expected to do their damn jobs before noon? Shut up and sing or stay in bed.

Luckily, I didn't have to endure much whining. I stayed for a round or two at the workshop and then grabbed some of the great backstage brunch before heading off to see The Wailin' Jennys in concert. Of course the girls were impressive, but what really impressed me was the huge crowd gathered to watch the show. Their show was at stage 7, which is a bit of an awkwardly placed spot with the family area right there, but they sure packed in the crowd. Even well before the show started, I had a hard time getting anywhere near the place, which definitely is a good sign for them. The crowd seemed very appreciative, and hopefully many of them will go see the girls when they return to Edmonton on their headlining tour in September.

Right after The Jennys came their label-mate, legendary American singer/songwriter Greg Brown. As legendary and renowned as Brown is, I have to say, he had a much smaller crowd than the Jennys did. I've never had the opportunity to see him live, and only fairly recently have I come to know and love his music, so this was a great opportunity to see him and really listen to his songs at the same time. And I definitely came away with a much greater appreciation of his talents, and I really understand him a lot more now.

I guess the most surprising thing for me about this show was that the great songwriter actually played a whole lot of covers. I caught covers by John Prine (Angel from Montgomery), Son House, Bob Dylan, Merle Haggard (Kern River), and of course, Johnny Cash (Folsom Prison Blues.) As much as I enjoyed those and appreciated the opportunity to see Brown put his own spin on some classic songs, I know that those of us who went to see him went to see him and his own songs. It would have made much more sense to me for him to focus on his own stuff and give it the attention that it deserved, rather than have him sit around singing campfire classics. Nonetheless, it was a great show.

Following Brown, it was time for the mainstage break. On the one hand, I appreciate these breaks, but in the three times I've been to the festival, I don't think I've paid attention to a single act that's played one of these daytime concerts. Honestly, David Bromberg would have been just as well off doing a concert at one of the side stages. Most people take it as an opportunity to visit the food vendors or the CD tent anyway, as the long lineups would attest. With a fairly short workshop schedule, this seems to be a bit of a waste of time if you ask me. Sure, I could probably use the break, but I might like to see more than 4 workshops in a day also.

Oh, and speaking of the workshops. I have but one small complaint about the schedule in Edmonton. At our festival, workshops are scheduled to start on the hour or half hour or whatever, so they end 10 or 15 minutes early. Stages are usually set up and ready to go by the time the workshop is supposed to start. But in Edmonton, each workshop ends at the time that the next one is supposed to begin. As an audience member, I find this really frustrating. I get there on time, only to be met with a long set-up/soundcheck. Why not have those out of the way before the top or bottom of the hour, so that if a workshop is supposed to start at 4, it starts at 4? Wouldn't that make more sense? It seems to work at other festivals, so I found the Edmonton system a bit frustrating.

After the break, I decided on "Rhythm and Views," featuring The Duhks, Geoff Berner, and Solas. Sadly, Rodrigo y Gabriela, who were supposed to play and I was really curious to see, were unable to make it. We were told that it was because of the major airline troubles going on, but I heard that they had been there for their concert earlier on, so I'm not sure why they skipped out. Once again, Berner seemed like the odd-man-out, set beside two celtic bands, but he definitely put on a great show anyway. He actually seemed best suited to the theme of the workshop.

The real stars of this workshop, for me, were Winnipeg's own The Duhks. I'll be perfectly honest: I'm strongly predisposed to dislike this band for a wide variety of reasons, none of them particularly good. Sure, I've heard that they've been doing big things in the US and have made big gains, but, probably much like many Winnipeggers, I've never really given them a chance. In Calgary I discovered that I'd been taking the D. Rangers for granted and not giving them their proper respect, and in Edmonton, the same could definitely be said for The Duhks. Dave Bidini once labeled their music "twiddledy-twee," and I've always found that particularly amusing, but now I can see that it's not particularly accurate. They've grown and changed a lot since they were "just" a celtic band as Scruj MacDuhk (as they should, having lost almost all of the members of that band), and have since incorporated a wider variety of styles. Best of all is the great mix of players in the band. Leonard may be the driving force of the band, but for my money, the real stars are the two lovely ladies, Tania Elizabeth and Jessica Havey. Both are dynamite singers with really powerful stage presence. Havey could belt out a song with the best of them and not skip a beat, and Elizabeth is a very talented fiddler who, despite her youth and small stature, could hold her own on any stage, anywhere. So, once again, my foolish prejudices were proven to be just that. I still don't like the goofy band name, but the band itself, I've quickly become a fan of.

Following this workshop, I faced one of the most difficult decisions of the festival. Two of the folks I most wanted to see were, of course, on at the same time. Iris DeMent was doing her only festival appearance at her solo concert on stage 3 at 4:30. This left me just enough time to catch a bit of her set before I ran next door to see Teddy Thompson's concert at 5. Or so I thought. I got there by 4:30 and a huge crowd was gathered on the hill awaiting Iris's arrival. The setup seemed a bit weird. The festival stage crew was setting her up and doing her sound check for her, while Iris waited backstage and I guess gave orders. As per my previous complaint, the show didn't start for a good 15 minutes or so after 4:30. Her stage set up included a guitar and mic at the front of the stage, and a piano and mic at one side. The stage crew, wisely, had set up the piano on an angle so that a good portion of the crowd would be able to see Iris while she played it. When she finally got up on stage, she took one look at the piano and called the crew back up to move it for her. For whatever reason, she didn't like the angle that the piano was on, and had it moved so that it was more or less at a 90 degree angle to the back of the stage. Unfortunately, because she was already off to one side already, and because once again the sound towers were in front of the stage, instead of beside it, I'd wager to guess that almost nobody could actually see her. I certainly couldn't see the piano at all at this point, and of course, she started out on it. I tried moving to the side of the stage so that I could at least stand and take a photo, but there was a blue tarp stretched across for some reason, so there was no way of actually seeing Iris at all. I got frustrated after a couple of songs and figured I'd be better off getting a good spot for Thompson than listening to DeMent without actually seeing her. I can do that at home!

Like I said, I was eager to see Thompson. He'd done a bunch of workshops, but for whatever reason, I'd missed every one. His stuff seemed to be selling briskly at the merch tent, and people were talking about him, so I knew he was doing something right. Thompson, of course, is the only son of Richard and Linda Thompson. With that kind of pedigree, I suppose he could get a gig at a folk festival just by showing up, maybe playing a few of his folks' songs and that would be that. But Teddy has forged his own direction, doing really melodic and interesting pop/soul kind of stuff. His record "Separate Ways" is one of my favourites of this year for sure. The album is pretty well produced and he's backed by a full band on it, so I wondered how young Teddy would sound by himself at a festival.

Thompson started off seeming to have trouble with his sound. I'm not entirely sure what he was complaining about, it sounded fine to me. He didn't say much of anything off the top, just played a couple of songs, grumbled a bit about the sound, and that was it. After a few songs, he finally addressed the crowd and told us that he was in a bad mood, but was starting to come around. He then proceeded to say that the one thing he was dying to see at the festival was Iris DeMent's concert, which was on right next door. He said, "If I were you, I'd get up and go over there." So some folks did just that. This didn't seem to make Teddy's mood that much better, but it sure was a great reaction to a dumb thing to say. It's a good thing his songs are as good as they are, because Thompson didn't seem all that charming or engaging. Perhaps he was having a bad day for some legitimate reason, but as an audience member, I don't want to have to worry about that. I came to see his best show, and I'm not so sure I got it. I enjoyed him, and will definitely be watching as his star rises in the years to come, but I wasn't all that wowed by Thompson as a performer.

And just like that, the daytime workshops at the festival came to an end. It had been a great day weather-wise, but I kind of felt like I hadn't seen all that much, so I was a bit sorry the daytime portion had to end.

I missed much of mainstage opener Salif Keita's set, but I saw him again at the party later on so that was ok. A great lively set of world music.

Next up was Chumbawumba. Like everyone else, the only thing I know about this band is that they had that huge hit in the 90s. I had heard that they were this radical, communist, anarchist band. I expected them to be young and brash and wild. I knew that they were doing an acoustic set, but I guess I expected it to be something other than what it was. What it was, was a set of pretty traditional folk stuff, but with hot-topic lyrics about homophobia, violence, and politics. I guess that pretty much describes folk music, though. Even though I live for folk festivals and host a singer/songwriter show, I must admit, I'm not a huge fan of real traditional folk music. Perhaps that's why I was bored to tears by Chumbawumba. And I know I wasn't alone, judging by the confused looks on some of the faces around me, and the frequent shouts for their big hit. Every time someone shouted out for "Tubthumping," the band shrugged it off and made some snide comment, but I figured that they were pretty much contractually obligated to play the damn thing, even in stripped-down, folky acoustic mode. That might have been kind of cool, actually. I figured that they'd do it last, for their big finale. And I was so bored and confused by their set, that I sat through it just to hear that song, so that I'd feel somewhat vindicated for having sat through their set. But alas, those crazy radicals did the only truly anarchistic thing they could do, and didn't play the damn thing. I know some folks thought it was brilliant, but for me, it was an hour of my life that would have been better spent in a million different ways.

I got some much needed relief in the form of a Wailin' Jennys 'tweener set. I couldn't get close enough out front to take decent photos, so I stood backstage and tried to get some arty ones. In the photos, it kind of looks like nobody is paying attention, and during a 'tweener set there is always a large portion of the audience that isn't, but I can tell you that the girls held their own and seemed to get a great response from whatever portion of the crowd was doing the right thing and catching a bit of their magic.

The second-last mainstage act was the legendary Blind Boys of Alabama. I've seen these guys before and know that they put on one dynamite show. There are tons of performers a mere fraction of their age who could stand to learn a few lessons from these guys. With a solid set of great gospel, soul, and blues, they had the crowd hooting and hollering and praising the Lord. I was sitting at side stage with another kind of religious figure, The Whiskey Rabbi himself, Geoff Berner, who decided to play doctor and cure me of the heat exhaustion I was feeling, by feeding me something called Emergen-C. It's actually not bad. Not a bad little thing to have on hand at a festival. Thanks Berner. We enjoyed the witty banter that the Blind Boys were doling out, and Berner was taking some notes for his set. I know it's not nice to spy on performers off stage, they're allowed some private time too, but I had to take note of Iris Dement and Greg Brown standing right next to me. Iris, who is quite shy and understated at the best of times, was absolutely feeling the power of the music and the word, because she was dancing up a storm like I really didn't think she was capable of. She clapped and danced and sang and moved around like a woman possessed. It just seemed so contrary to everything that I've seen in her before. It was actually kind of neat to see. And afterward, her and Greg were like a cute, cuddly, newlywed couple, really enjoying the evening together, and it kind of restored my faith that somewhere, somehow, happy marriages do exist, even for "celebrities," such as themselves.

After a high-energy, powerful set like the Blind Boys put on, Sarah Harmer had her work cut out for her, following that and closing off a great day at a truly great festival. She's been playing in low-key, acoustic mode for a while now, and her sleepy set could have been the perfect relaxing way to unwind after a long weekend, but I wasn't ready to be sleepy just yet, and was feeling pretty energized. I love Sarah, but in that context, I found her set to be kind of boring. It was an interesting programming move, but from my perspective, and from the perspective of the many folks who packed up and went home early, I'm not sure it was a success.

Night time at the Edmonton Folk Fest brings out the lovely festival candles that are sold throughout the weekend. It's such a neat idea and it looks so beautiful, looking out on the see of tiny lights stretched all the way up the hill. My picture sucks, but it kind of gives you an idea, I guess. It's the kind of serene, magical image that I want to be left with, and the kind that I want to end off on. Festivals are indeed a lot of work, a lot of heat, and especially in Edmonton, a lot of exercise, but they're also a great way to really sit back, relax, and unwind. This trip allowed me to really escape from my hectic "real" life and get away. And since I was at the festival solo, it really allowed for a lot of thinking and reflecting. All of what transpired left me feeling really good about the festival, and it allowed me to come home and get back to work with a clearer head and a somewhat rejuvenated mind and body. I'm also left with great memories and some great music, and really, what more could you possibly ask in life than those things?

Thanks Edmonton, and I hope to see you next year.

 

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This page was last updated 08/22/06